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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.